Time to fiberglass the inside of the deck. Here I'll use some scrap material left over from the outside 'glassing. One large scrap will cover the tip of the front (approx 2.5 feet or so) and another large scrap will cover the tip of the back. Then a large piece of standard cloth will fit over the middle. Here you can see the scrap I've cut for the tip of the front.

And here's the back. You can see a brush that I use to smooth out the glass. This helps get rid of all of the wrinkles without damaging the cloth. And, you can see the roll of cloth in the foreground. I did the tips, then the main body piece.

Same thing, from the opposite angle.

Here you can see the overlapping fiberglass cloth. For completely arbitrary reasons, I chose a width of two to three inches of overlap. Note that while I'll do pretty much the same thing when I do the inside of the deck, I do have an alternate approach to prevent fraying the ends (you'll see why later). This one finally clicked, but just too late. No biggie, we're on the inside of the boat here anyway.

Here's the 'glass all laid out and smoothed out over the interior of the hull.

Ta-da! The interior is all wet-out and ready to cure. However, I had some problems while mixing the resin and hardener. First, my pumps failed. The pump on the hardener wasn't long enough to pump all of the hardener out of the bottle, and I reached the no-mans land between the bottom of the pump and the bottom of the half-gallon bottle. Also, the resin pump was consistently "burping" making it unreliable. I knew that the hardener pump was going to shortly be un-usable, so I had (while I could) marked out the proper amounts—equivalent to four pumps—on a plastic cup. I had, fortuitously, also marked out the additional four pumps of resin, on top of the hardener, on the same cup. So that cup became my holy grail. However, I did lose a significant amount of epoxy while making the switch. This is why I haven't wet-out the deck yet. I need to get more epoxy (I think I've got enough for one more coat on the hull, but that's it) to continue. Also, it's cold out—and things are taking longer to set up and cure. All of these factors combine to give Rick much stress while wetting out the hull interior.

Here's a close-up of the tip of the front. You can see what look like drips (the lighter spots). Those aren't really drips. They're areas where glue was dried on the inside during the stripping process. I didn't care too much about the inside of the boat—this will all be covered. However, you can see why it is important to be vigilant about cleaning up glue while you're stripping the boat (especially on the outside) and also why being careful to plane and sand all surface are of the outside is important. Can you imagine stuff like that on the outside of the boat?

Here's the seam. The flash makes this look kind of wierd. But, you can see how the ends frayed here. Again, no big deal because we're inside the boat. Since we're inside the boat, however, this means I can experiment (insert evil scientist laugh here) when I do the deck. Actually, since I'll be adding some reinforcement layers on the inside of the hull, I'll experiment with those too. Stay posted.